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Tahiti and the Society Islands

Tahiti, Teahupoo, July 30  2006   by Bart

Arrival in Tahiti was spectacular.  We had already noticed a big swell out on the ocean but didn't realize it was this big until we came closer to the coast. Big breakers on the reef. A whale fluking (showing his tail in the air) in front. 

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The pilot (book) said the pass of Teahupoo is an all weather pass. But we didn't see any entrance until we were real close and than it suddenly opened up in front of us. The biggest tubes (hollow breaking waves of the world) breaking right next  to us, but the channel was deep and very quiet. The boats watching Teahupoo were sitting 10 meters from the breaking waves. The best theater there is.

After we came through the pass, we had to follow a very narrow channel with 3 knots of current against us, to the village Teahupoo, where we anchored in 20 meter. We quickly launched the dingy and went to the break next to the other boats and watched one tube after the other rolling in. Most surfers made it, but some got smashed on the knee deep reef, with sometimes a few cuts and scratches more than before. Laird Hamilton ( the best big wave rider at the moment) got out on with his jet ski and got towed in. Although he got washed on the reef a few times too, he had some awesome rides.

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Here some shots 2 days before our arrival by Tom Mc Kenna, this about biggest ever!

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The next few days we enjoyed the tranquility of the anchorage behind the reef and did some snorkeling.

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After a one day stop at another pass, where we did some surfing, we continued to Pape'ete. The worst day weather wise, we had in months. It was raining almost all day and soon as we entered Pape'ete, it became even worse; 30 knots of wind and a real tropical downpour.

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We enjoyed a week long all the luxuries Pape'ete had to offer: Marine supplies, big big supermarkets, Mc Donalds, Cinema etc etc.

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We worked on the boat, did a few necessary repairs on the water pump of the motor and the roll furling (genoa) which didn't wanted to roll anymore. Finally we also found an internet connection, since some of our friends asked themselves, if we were still floating. We updated the website as much as possible. A nice week but after a week in the modern world, it was also nice to leave and to make the 20 mile passage to Mo'orea. 

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Mo'orea, Society Islands, August 11  2006   by Bart

We anchored in a picturesque bay, Opunohu. Dagmar could run every day, Soleil found some friends to play with on the "Blue Marlin" and I did some bike rides in the hills between the pineapple fields and the Maraes (archeological sites). 

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We celebrated our 8th year anniversary with a buffet dinner in a nice resort hotel down the beach. During the buffet there was a dance show, nothing like  the dancing in the Marquesas, but the seafood and desert buffet was marvelous and way too much.

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It's funny, that the bigger the anchorage and the more boats are on the anchorage, the less social contacts are between the boats. Let me explain. If there are only 2 or 3 boats anchored in a bay, you go over and meet them and talk to them which leads often to a BBQ on the beach, a Happy hour at 5pm or a new friendship. But when there are too many boats, somehow you don't meet so many other people. In Tahiti and Mo'orea there are lot's of boats at the anchorages...

We made 2 little side trips. One was to the stingrays behind the reef, a few miles north with the dingy. We all 3 went snorkeling. You could get real close and even touch them. Up to 10 at the same time. 

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The second trip, we walked the 3 coconuts tree trail up the mountains of Mo'orea.

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Huahine,  Society Islands, August 16  2006   by Bart

We made the crossing to Huahine in strange weather. First the wind was really light, than picked up after a few hours. We had several different swells making it a bumpy ride. However, the next morning we anchored in a beautiful bay at point Teapara. 

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We quickly made new friends with "DIVA" and have seen the crew of "Blue Marlin" again. Before we knew, we were doing a BBQ on the beach and having a wonderful night. We intended to stay only 1 or 2 nights, but ended up staying 6. We enjoyed the company, the island and the bay. "DIVA" Brazilian/German, Mark and Corinna have 3 boys, twins of 9 and a 11 year old, "Blue Marlin" Norwegian, Rune and Idunn have also twins, 2 girls of 6. So Soleil had plenty of play time. We went diving, snorkeling, played on the beach, windsurfed and waked board behind their 15 HP dinghy. The grown-ups did a delicious Sushi-Night on "Blue Marlin", while the kids had a Movie-Night on "DIVA". Dagmar also enjoyed the company of some other women on the boats, hiking in the mountains, boogieboard paddling in the bay. 

After a week with nice friends in a nice bay it 's always difficult to move on, but we still wanted to see Samoa and Tonga and we had to be in New Zealand by October 22, when my flight to the SURF test in South Africa will be leaving. 

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Bora Bora,  Society Islands, August 23  2006   by Bart

After a short stop in Taha'a we went to Bora Bora. Although we knew it was going to be touristy and expensive, we still wanted to see this perfect (from the outside) pacific island. 

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We found a quiet anchorage behind a small island 2 miles from town. Clear water, very little wind and beautiful background, a good place to prepare for the next crossing. We repaired the bilge pump, toilet and  some other small things. We went shopping; 4 tomatoes, 7 euro, 1/2 hour (slow) dial up internet 9 euros. Checked out with immigration and customs. The night before our crossing Dagmar and Soleil prepared Sushi with fresh caught Mahi Mahi (Dorado). 

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Its funny, that the further we sail the less we think/worry or care about a 9 day crossing like this one to Samoa. Its becoming 'normal'. We run to the supermarket, clean the boat, make sure everything ready and off we go to the next destination. We set sail

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Last modified: September 02, 2008          Hit Counter